Former Chikurin-in Temple – The Ultimate Travel Guide
Located in the town of Sakamoto (坂本) near Kyoto (京都), lies the small and quaint Former Chikurin-in Temple (旧竹林院). Don’t underestimate this small temple though as this place is not only a scenic beauty but also once served as a Satobo (里坊), or a residence for retired monks. Today, this place is famously known among locals for its scenery of its garden reflection captured on a low table setup in Japanese-style rooms.
Table of Contents
History
A Little Historical Background
This site is located at the foot of the famed Mt Hiei (比叡山 or Hiei-zan) which houses the massive temple complex of Enryakuji (延暦寺) at its summit. At its peak, Enryakuji had over 3,000 sub-temples under it as well as a militia of over 3,000 warrior monks (僧兵 or Souhei).
It was also the founding center of Tendai Buddhism (天台宗); which originated from China and is called Tiantai Buddhism. As the number of monks in the complex increased, so too did the number of retired monk.
Thus, came in the role of Satobos (里坊), residences built specifically for retired monks, with Former Chikurin-in Temple (旧竹林院 or Kyuu-Chikurin-in) being one of them. A common trait shared by these Satobos is the existence of Japanese gardens; allowing these retired monks to not just live in a tranquil environment but to connect better with the surrounding nature.
Why is it Called Former?
At this juncture, you may be asking, why does this temple has the word ‘Former’ or ‘旧/Kyuu’ on its name? This term is to indicate that this site was formerly a temple. The temple’s fate took a twist during the Meiji period (1868 – 1912) when the government issued a decree to separate Buddhism and Shintoism known as Shinbutsu Bunri (神仏分離) as part of a nationalist movement.
In the past, it was very common to see Buddhist and Shinto structures coexisted in the same complex. With this decree however, things took a messy turn as many structures within these sacred complexes had to be demolished. For Former Chikurin-in Temple’s case, it was converted into somebody’s private villa.
Eventually, the local council of Otsu city (大津) took over the villa, marking a turning point where it is no longer a temple. Instead, it became the only Satobo that is opened for public viewing at present day.
Visiting Former Chikurin-in Temple
To get to Former Chikurin-in Temple, one has to travel to the historical town of Otsu (大津) in Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県) which is around 30 minutes away from Kyoto by driving. The site itself is located within the town’s old quarters just next to the shrine, Hiyoshi Taisha (日吉大社). While there are several Satobos that are located in Otsu, this remains to be the only one that is opened to public visit.
Former Chikurin-in Temple is opened daily except on Mondays; however there are also opened from early November to early December for the special autumn illumination event. My wife and I visited the site during the special illumination and we find this to be one of the better light shows in not just Japan but also around the world.
Note that there is another temple in Kyoto called Ruriko-in (瑠璃光院) that offers a similar light up experience. We however prefer the experience at Former Chikurin-in Temple; simply because it is much cheaper (1,000 Yen as opposed to the former’s 2,000 Yen fee) as well as it is less crowded then the former.
Former Chikurin-in Temple - Registration & Entering
The entrance is located right next to the main house itself, with the huge sign stating ‘旧竹林院’. From the entrance, simply pay the admission fee of 330 Yen per pax to enter. Do note however if you are attending the special light up event just like us, the fee is 1,000 Yen per pax and it is advisable to reserve your slot in advance.
In our case, we made our reservation via KKday and from there, we chose our time slot based on the selection they provided (each time slot is allocated for just 30 minutes). See HERE for 2023’s event that ran from 3rd November to 3rd December. Afterwards, we simply arrive at the venue and parked just outside the entrance and wait for our turn before the staff called us.
The Illumination Experience
Upon entering the premise, we were greeted immediately by the dazzling display of lights in various colours accompanied by some soothing music in the background. The light show itself is done in the room featuring the garden view. And at the center of the room, and the trick to capture a captivating photo here lies in the reflection on the glazed table in the middle.
Also, the colours will change accordingly to the music; providing new and fresh photo opportunities throughout the session. The coordination of striking and mild colours coupled with the traditional garden scenery and the soothing music is done in a wonderful taste; making this one of the better light shows we attended in Japan.
Of course if you find the room to be too crowded, fret not. All you need to do is simply backtrack a little bit until you find a set of stairs. Then, climb up to the second floor and you will find another room with a similar setup as well.
The whole session itself is around 30 minutes; which is more than enough time to enjoy the overall light show. Do note however, the garden itself is off-limits during this event as it is only open for visit during the day.
Visiting Former Chikurin-in Temple During the Day
Now then you may ask, how is the scenery during the day? For the early birds and those who prefer the sunshine, checking out the Former Chikurin-in Temple during the day is also a great alternative. In this case, the main focus of the scenery’s beauty lies in the lush greenery the garden has to offer.
Not to mention, the reflection of the green garden on the table is a photo opportunity not to be missed. One can simply spend the entire time in the room enjoying the refreshing scenery of the curated garden while immersing in the tranquil environment. But of course, we are not just going to view the garden from the inside, but also explore the garden itself.
As we explore the garden, take your time to enjoy the meticulously manicured garden that has streams that flow across the plants. Also, stop by the two teahouses that are located within the garden. Occasionally, there will be tea ceremonies conducted in these teahouses; allowing one to relax while enjoying a warm cup of tea.
The teahouses here feature a unique seating arrangement; whereby the host who serves the tea sits in the middle while being surrounded by guests on both sides. Normally, the host will sit on one side of the room and the guests on the other. This unique arrangement is called the Amanogawa-no-seki (天の川席), which exists in very few teahouses in Japan.
How To Get Here
By Train
- Otsu (大津) is well-connected by train. Simply board the Tokaido-Sanyo train (東海道·山陽線) from Kyoto Station (京都駅) to Hieizan Sakamoto Station (比叡山坂本駅) for about 20 minutes (one-way ticket 330 Yen). Then, head to Hieizan Sakamoto bus stand (比叡山坂本駅) and board the Cable Sakamoto line bus (ケーブル坂本線) to Hietaishamae Bus Stop (日吉大社前) for another 10 minutes (one-way ticket 250 Yen).
By Car
- If you are visiting for the night time illumination or love road trips however, renting a car will be a much better option as the bus will only operate until evening (which can be inconvenient especially if you want to visit the night event). Moreover, renting a car allows you to travel flexibly around the prefecture of Shiga which offers a variety of historical sites and shrines such as the nearby Ukimido (浮御堂) as well as scenic views of the magnificent Lake Biwa (琵琶湖).
When to Visit Former Chikurin-in Temple
Former Chikurin-in Temple is open all year round (EXCEPT on Mondays). Being an autumn fan myself, I would recommend visiting during autumn when the light up event occurs. Even if you are not visiting the night, you can still enjoy the scenery of the fall foliage while exploring the garden itself (peak of autumn is from mid till late November).
Where to Stay Nearby
A day trip to Otsu is possible especially from Kyoto and Osaka given its close proximity to both cities. However, staying a night or two at Otsu is also a great idea as the city offers a variety of attractions worth checking out for those willing to explore deeper. Attractions such as Hiyoshi Taisha (日吉大社), Mii-dera (三井寺), Enryakuji (延暦寺) and Omi Jingu (近江神宮) offer equally impressive travel experiences to that of Kyoto but at a much more relaxing pace with lesser tourist crowds.
Well-known local business hotel chains such as APA Hotel and Toyoko Inn are great options to consider for budget travelers. If you are keen in taking a cruise across the scenic Lake Biwa and have a bit of budget to spend, consider spending the night at the grand Lake Biwa Otsu Prince Hotel. For those who are willing to splurge, indulge yourself at Biwako Ryokusuitei and Yuzanso which offers relaxing outdoor baths and also a stunning view of Lake Biwa.
Overall Thoughts
Visiting Former Chikurin-in Temple is certainly a must especially for those wanting to experience a light up event in Japan and also an authentic Japanese garden experience. It is important to note though that this is a small attraction; and as such it is advisable to add on other nearby attractions as part of your trip to Otsu.
Other nearby attractions to consider including Ukimido (浮御堂) and the next door Hiyoshi Taisha (日吉大社) which I will cover in a future article. Be sure to subscribe as I will cover more hidden gems like this around the city of Otsu. And If you found this guide useful, feel free to tell more people about it on social. Thank you and stay tune!
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