Dazaifu Tenmangu – A Complete Guide to Japan’s Poetic Shrine
Ask any local in Fukuoka (福岡) to name a shrine, and there is a high chance that Dazaifu Tenmangu will be the first in their mind. Dazaifu Tenmangu (pronounced Dazaifu Tenmangū/Dazaifu Tenmanguu/太宰府天満宮) is the largest shrine in the island of Kyushu’s (九州) and like every other shrine, is known for its stunningly beautiful architecture. Despite its famed reputation, it also holds a tragic past in regards to its founding. With that in mind, let’s explore the history and also what the complex has to offer:
- Read more about its deep history and tragic backstory here.
- Check out the town near the shrine entrance for these unique local attractions.
- Let’s explore the shrine’s beautiful and elaborate complex.
- Consider visiting these nearby attractions to compliment your trip and learn the best ways to travel here.
Table of Contents
History
A Little Background Story of the Enshrined Deity
Did you know Dazaifu Tenmangu was originally not a shrine? In fact, it was once a grave for Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真), a renowned historical politician from the Heian Period (平安時代) in the 9th century. Sugawara no Michizane has a rather impressive track record in his life resume and Japanese history. A politician, scholar, poet, a vengeful ghost, the god of learning and also a nationwide figure.
Michizane himself was born in a family of scholars and was able to read Chinese poems at the age of five. He even managed to compose his first poem at the age of eleven; earning himself a reputation as a child prodigy. He was also a rather intuitive personality; often gazing at his father’s plum trees and paying close attention to the beautiful blossoms in order to seek inspirations for his poems.
Because of his intellect and talents, he was able to pass various levels of civil examinations and eventually earning himself a political career pathway into the Imperial Court at a mere age of 25. He also gained the trust of Emperor Uda (宇多天皇); who respected him for his capabilities. Subsequently, the Emperor promoted him to Minister of the Right (右大臣); the second highest political post at that time.
How Dazaifu Tenmangu Became What It Is Today
Despite Michizane’s achievements, he was a victim of political scandals too. His successor, Emperor Daigo (醍醐天皇) was a supporter of the rivaling Fujiwara clan (藤原氏) in Court. The Fujiwara accused him of attempting to replace the Emperor with his son-in-law ans subsequently he was banished to Dazaifu (大宰府). Fate was not kind to him as he was given an abandoned house and without a single attendant. Humiliated and ashamed, Michizane expressed his grieve through a series of poem; before leaving the world in a heartbreaking death in AD 903.
Michizane’s death however led to several mysterious events. Firstly, his former student who plotted against him was struck by lighting to death. Next, his main conspirator, Fujiwara no Tokihira (藤原時平) died abruptly from illness. Even the hall of the imperial palace was struck by lightning during a meeting; killing several Court members and shocking Emperor Daigo to his death.
Many feared that these disasters were caused by the vengeful spirit of Michizane. As such, in AD 905, they reinstated his rank and deified him as a Shinto God (Tenjin/天神). They also renovated the measly poor temple that enshrined him into the magnificent shrine that it is today.
Dazaifu Monzen Machi - Gateway to the Shrine
If you are visiting Dazaifu Tenmangu, there is no way you can miss this charming little town known as Dazaifu Monzen Machi (太宰府門前仲町). Upon arrival at the Dazaifu train station (太宰府駅), we will be greeted by a path filled with charming boutique shops, snack retailers and cafes. Architecture lovers in particular should spend some time checking out these traditional shops for their beautiful interior design. Gourmet enthusiasts on the other hand should look out for the local specialty, the Umegae Mochi rice cake (梅ヶ枝餅); which had a rather tragic background story behind it.
Featuring Japan's Most Famous Starbucks
Did you know Japan’s most famous Starbucks is located on the way to Dazaifu Tenmangu? Starbucks Dazaifu (スターバックス太宰府) was designed by world-renowned architect Kuma Kengo (隈研吾); who is known for assimilating both traditional and modern designs using natural materials. The most notable attribute that is visible even from the outside is the sheer use of jointing wood.
This craft is known as kigumi (木組み), a traditional method which involves assembling joint woods to create a structure without the use of nails or metal fittings. Because there are no nails or fittings, this provides an easier time for workers to assemble and disassemble the structure when necessary.
The interior of the outlet itself does make you feel like you are inside a handwoven basket with the sheer coverage of the joint woods across the ceiling and the walls. The light brown woods crossing each other certainly do give you an impression that you are chilling inside a forest; especially when the woodworks provide a shade from the sunlight.
Check Out Dazaifu's Local Specialty
Ask any local what is the specialty of Dazaifu, and they will tell you Umegae Mochi (梅ヶ枝餅). This rather simple dessert is a rice cake that is filled with sweet red bean paste and has a printing of the petals of a plum blossom on it. There are over 30 stores selling this tasty dessert, but the one that I went for was Kasanoya (かさの家), which has been selling Umegae Mochi since 1922 when it first started as a traveler’s lodging (hatago/旅籠).
What makes this mochi unique though is that it is grilled instead of being hand-rolled. This gives a warm and crispy texture to it; further complimented wonderfully with the sweetness of the red bean paste. Now you may be puzzled as to why this confectionery has a plum printing on it when in reality, there is no plum filling in it. The reason for this is due to the tragic background story of this dessert.
During Michizane’s time in Dazaifu, he barely had any food to survive the days. An old lady who was a kind soul offered him rice cakes to save him from starvation through the openings on the wooden grid window frame of his house. And the stick that she used to pass the rice cakes was, you guessed it, a plum stick. Hence, the dessert got its name as Umegae Mochi or Plum Stick Rice Cake in English.
Entering Dazaifu Tenmangu
Meet the Guardian Bull
Continue towards the shrine complex and we will come face to face with a big bronze bull statue. This is the Goshingyū Bull (御神牛); the staple guardian in the Dazaifu Tenmangu shrine as well as other Tenmangu shrines around Japan, including Kitano Tenmangu shrine (北野天満宮) in Kyoto. Similarly to the Umegae Mochi, the bull also has a strong association with Sugawara no Michizane.
Firstly, Michizane was born during the year of the Ox according to the Chinese calendar. Also; when he passed away, his body was carried by a bullock cart. The bull stopped by at the current Dazaifu Tenmangu location however, and refused to move further. Locals saw this as a message from Michizane himself that he wanted to be laid to rest in this location.
Before proceeding any further, don’t forget to stroke the shiny portion on the bull’s head. Locals believe that stroking the shiny part of the head will bring you good fortune. If you are visiting on the 1st January however, do expect an insanely long queue of people lining up to stroke the head as they too desire to have a good year ahead.
Crossing The Three Vermillion Bridges
After paying our respects to the guardian bull, we then cross the three vermillion bridges over the pond. These are the Taiko Bridges (太鼓橋) and they represent the past, present and future respectively. The first and third bridge are arched bridges. The middle one on the other hand is designed purposefully to be flat; as it represents the present in which you can’t see what is ahead.
And then, there is the Shinji-ike pond (心字池). Ponds are quite common in Shinto shrines as water represents purity in Shintoism (神道). If you take a look of the pond from an aerial view perspective, you will noticed that the shape of the pond resembles the Japanese character 心 or heart. This stems from the core believe of Shintoism; focusing on purifying and cleansing the human heart. 心 (shin) means heart, while 字 (ji) means word/character and 池 (ike) means pond.
I love the dynamics between the arch bridges and the flat bridge here. They are beautiful, especially with their reflection on the pond; which creates for plenty of photo opportunities in this area. And the bright vermillion colors here contrast beautifully against the surrounding lush green trees; which of course are a most welcome addition especially when they shaded me from the scorching sun.
The Main Gate
As we approach the main complex, we proceed to pay our greetings to Dazaifu Tenmangu’s main gate. This is a Rōmon (Roumon/楼門), a two-storied gate commonly found in temples and shrines across Japan. In many Rōmons, the second floor serves as a decorative balcony and is often inaccessible. The roof on the second floor is a nice touch, as it does create an impression that you are looking at a multi-storied structure. And the vermillion colour matches beautifully with the stripes of yellow; adding to the overall solemnity of the structure.
And similar to other shrines in Japan, be sure to head towards the Chōzuya (手水舎), the nearby purification fountain to wash your hands and rinse your mouth. While Chōzuya (手水舎) or purification fountains are common in shrines in Japan, this one holds the proud record of being the largest in Japan; measuring approximately 4 x 6 metres in size. Its no surprise the shrine requires such a large fountain; given that tons of visitors visit the shrine during the New Year. Look out for the giant turtle in the middle as well; which is another unique feature of this fountain.
For a special tip, visit the fountain during June whereby the fountain will be specially decorated with various colourful hydrangeas (Ajisai/紫陽花); giving the fountain an entirely vibrant and refreshing look.
Dazaifu Tenmangu's Main Sanctuary
We then enter the spiritual centre of Dazaifu Tenmangu, the Honden (本殿). The Honden or sanctuary of a shrine is where the deity is enshrined, in this case is Sugawara no Michizane. The sanctuary itself is a marvel to look at, simply for the mix of rich vibrant colours, gold plating and intricate carvings. While the original was destroyed, it was later. rebuilt in AD 1591. That same time was the Azuchi-Momoyama period (安土桃山時代), a turbulent period with constant civil wars as well as cultural evolution. Clearly, the turbulance of the period influenced the overall dynamism of the architecture itself.
As we approach the sanctuary closer, take a closer look at the object of worship at the altar. This is a Shinkyou (神鏡/literally translates as God mirror); in which the mirror represents the deity itself. Mirrors symbolise the truth as they reflect exactly what is shown and is revered highly in Shintoism. It is also believed that mirrors serve as a medium for the deities to connect betwen the spiritual and the human world.
Also, look out for the below special board featuring tons of hanging wooden plates. Introducing Ema (絵馬), wooden plates where you can write your wishes and prayers to the deities of the shrine. They cost 1,000 Yen each and you can get them from the nearby counters. Ema (絵馬) literally translates as ‘picture horse’, and this is because of its ancient origin. In ancient times, live horses were once used as offerings to the deities for prayers. However over the centuries, these evolved into horse figurines, and eventually into the wooden plates version that we see today.
Look Out for These Other Attractions
Apart from the main sanctuary, here are some notable attractions to look out for. The first is the Tobiume (飛梅) or the flying plum tree in front of the sanctuary. Just like the Umegae Mochi, plum trees are associated closely with Sugawara no Michizane. According to legends, the flying plum tree missed Michizane dearly that it flew overnight from Kyoto to his resting place in Dazaifu. To watch the blossoming of the beautiful plum tree, be sure to visit the shrine from late-Jan to late-Mar.
Then, there is also the nearby Kyushu National Museum (九州国立博物館), which is just 5 minutes walk away from the shrine. This is officially the fourth national museum in the country (after Tokyo, Kyoto and Nara museums) and the first newly built museum in over 100 years (the other 3 were built during the 1800s). If you are keen in learning more about Japanese history, be sure to check it out as the museum features an extensive display of Japanese history; spanning from the prehistoric era until the Edo period.
And to complete your historic journey around Dazaifu, board a bus towards the nearby Government Office Ruins and the Kanzeonji (観世音寺) temple. The former once housed some of the largest government buildings that were constructed to administer the island of Kyushu while the latter was formerly the most crucial Buddhism centre in the island.
How to Get There
The most convenient way to access Dazaifu is via Fukuoka (福岡), as it is only approximately 30 minutes away via train ride. Fukuoka is well-connected by expressways and rails; and the city’s main train station is Hakata Station (博多駅). Both the JR Rail Pass and the JR Kyushu Rail Pass are worth considering if you are intending to travel extensively across cities in Japan. These passes offers the convenience to travel across cities and also opportunities to save cost as well. The former covers the JR lines across the entire country; while the latter is more suitable for those travelling around cities in the island of Kyushu only. Check out JR Rail’s website to learn more about these handy passes.
By Train
The most convenient option is to board the Nishitetsu Railway (西鉄) from Tenjin station (天神駅) in Fukuoka. Board the train along the Nishitetsu-Tenjin-Omuta line (西鉄天神大牟田線) for 15 minutes and transit at Nishitetsu Futsukaichi Station (西鉄二日市駅). Afterwards, board the Nishitetsu Dazaifu line (太宰府線) for 5 minutes and disembark at Dazaifu Station (太宰府駅). A one-way train ride will cost about 420 Yen. If you are from Hakata Station (博多駅), you will need to board a subway train to Tenjin station.
Consider getting yourself a Nimoca Card if you are planning to use the bus and trains around Fukuoka as it saves you a hassle to grab your wallet just to get the little changes to pay for the rides. Alternatively, there is also the Fukuoka Tourist City Pass which offers unlimited rides on trains, buses and subways in Fukuoka, as well as providing special privileges at various tourist facilities.
By Bus
Another option is to catch the Dazaifu Liner Bus, Tabito (旅人) from Hakata Station (博多駅) to Dazaifu. The buses operate frequently on a daily basis and departs from Hakata Bus Terminal 1F Bus Stop No.11 (博多バスターミナル１Ｆ (１１のりば)). The journey takes around 40 minutes and the fare is 610 Yen for one-way. An alternative for those who prefer the direct approach, though I personally would opt for the train simply to catch those scenic countryside views.
By Car
For those who are planning a road trip in Japan to explore the countryside, Dazaifu is also easily accessible via road. Dazaifu Tenmangu itself does not have its own parking slot but there are several nearby parking lots. This one here costs 400 Yen for the first hour and 100 Yen for every subsequent 30 minutes. Also, a plus point of having a car is that you can visit the surrounding attractions in Dazaifu easily; skipping the waiting times of the local bus.
In fact, a friend of mine used Tocoo; Japan’s leading rental car website which is reliable and provides a wide selection of cars, ranging from small economical cars to the larger family cars. Tocoo offers comprehensive and elaborate guides especially for those who are going to drive for the first time in Japan. Click here to embark on a wonderful journey of driving through the countryside of Japan.
Overall Thoughts
Despite its sheer popularity and touristy nature, Dazaifu Tenmangu makes up for it with its rich history value and also vibrant architecture. Even if you are not a fan of history, the nearby charming traditional shops are certainly worth checking out for their lovely interior and design and variety of local delicacies they have to offer. If you are looking for a wonderful day trip out of Fukuoka, consider planning a trip to Dazaifu Tenmangu.
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