Kibune - A Complete Travel Guide to Kyoto's Mystical Village

At the north of Kyoto’s majestic mountains lies the quaint village of Kibune (貴船). Since the ancient times, Kibune has been long associated with spirituality and tranquility; attracting many local visitors throughout the centuries who are seeking a retreat from the bustling city life. Let’s find out what makes this hidden village so attractive.

Table of Contents

Introducing Kibune & Its Surrounding Myths

Kibune’s founding mainly stemmed from the legendary founding of Kifune Shrine (貴船神社). The shrine itself is one of the oldest in Japan when the goddess, Tamayori-hime (玉依姫) ordered the construction of the shrine as she was impressed with the purity of the water and the spirituality of the area. For more details about this founding myth, refer to my full guide on Kifune Shrine here.

Instead in this section, we will cover the other fascinating myths that surround this mystical village and its iconic shrine:

The Story of The Poet, Izumi Shikibu

Kifune Shrine is believed to be the birthplace of Ema (絵馬), the iconic wooden wishing boards that you will see in every shrine in Japan (see my full guide on Kifune Shrine here for more details). Apart from the black and white horse ema, did you know the shrine has another ema with the picture of an ancient court lady?

This lady is known as Izumi Shikibu (和泉式部), a mid-Heian period poet that was born around AD 976. She was mainly know for her poetry style that combines a unique mixture of romanticism and eroticism with Buddhist philosophy; which reflects her flirtatious life and her eventual devotion to Buddhism.

When she was troubled due to her husband’s change of heart, she visited Kibune to pray to win his heart over. Amidst her deep sorrow, she saw the soothing sight of the fireflies flying over the river which prompted her to express her feelings via a poem. Shortly after her prayers however, her relationship with her husband was magically restored. And because of this, Kibune became a go-to place for those wishing for love.

Voodoo Practice in Japan

On a darker note, Kibune is also closely associated with the ‘Ushi no toki mairi (丑の時参り)’ ritual; literally translates as the “ox-hour shrine-visit”. This is the Japanese equivalent of a voodoo practitioner and it often involves a scorned woman who seeks revenge hammering a nail into a tree to inflict a curse on the victim.

The woman will dress herself in white and wear an iron ring set with three lit candles on her head. She then proceeds to perform the ritual during the hours of the Ox (around 1am to 3am) and must be repeated 7 days consecutively. And the practice can only be done at a spot with strong spiritual powers; with Kibune being one of the prime candidate.

The most prominent tales involving this ritual are the tale of Hashihime (橋姫), a woman in Uji (宇治) who became a demon upon learning of her husband’s infidelity and the tale of Takiyashahime (滝夜叉姫), the daughter of the famed samurai Taira no Masakado (平将門) who raised a demon army to seek revenge against the government upon her father’s death.

Exploring Kibune

Kibune is located deep within the serene mountains north of Kyoto; along with the neighbouring village of Kurama (鞍馬). Due to its close proximity from Kyoto (30 minutes by train), both villages serve as a wonderful day trip destination for those seeking to get away from the bustling city.

An important point to note is that the slight difference in name between the shrine and the village. The shrine is pronounced as Kifune Shrine (貴船神社) while the village is pronounced as Kibune (貴船); same Japanese characters with slightly different pronunciation.

premium bootstrap themes

Discover The Picturesque Street of Kibune and Its Shrine

What makes Kibune a worthy countryside destination to visit is the combination of its close association with various local folklores that add an element of mystic to it and also its unique villagescape. The village only has one road; with rows of traditional wooden buildings lining up while being surrounded by the towering cedar trees.

These present plenty of opportunities for photos as we walk along the street. And if you are visiting Kibune during autumn just like us, the presence of the autumn leaves along the street adds another layer of beauty to the rustic buildings.

Also, these buildings are located right next to the serene Kibune River (木船川). Part of the experience in Kibune is to listen to the calming sounds of the river flow while walking along the street. In fact, the overall experience certainly does feel like a nature sound therapy in itself.

The village’s main attraction is Kifune Shrine (貴船神社); which consists of three sections that are the main shrine (Hongu/本宮), the middle shrine (Yui-no-Yashiro/結社) and the rear shrine (Okumiya/奥宮). All 3 sections are accessible while strolling along the main street. Check out my complete travel guide here on this captivating shrine as I have covered the shrine experience in detail over there.

Trying Out the Kawadoko Experience at Kibune

Apart from hiking and visiting the Kifune Shrine, another activity to look out for is the Kawadoko (川床) riverside dining experience that is exclusive in summer. From May to September every year, restaurants in Kibune will construct the platforms over the Kibune River; providing a cool and picturesque dining setting.

Do note however that Kibune is a resort village and the prices of the meals are on the higher end. A Kaiseki-ryouri (会席料理)/traditional multicourse can range from 3,000 Yen to 20,000 Yen per pax (~USD 20 to USD 130). Also, this is one of the few places that does not have any convenient stores. So make sure to buy your snacks beforehand if you need to.

A word of advice; many restaurants do require reservations beforehand. As such; it is highly advisable to check their website if any prior to arriving to Kibune.

Here are some of the Kawadoko establishments to look out for in this area:

Hirobun (ひろ文) – One of the more popular restaurants in the area; offering both Kaiseki-ryouri and Nagashi-Somen (流しそうめん) for 2,000 Yen per pax (as of July 2024), noodles that are served by flowing down a bamboo stream.

Hyoue (兵衛) – A Kaiseki-ryouri restaurant that also features a cafe where you can order some matcha drinks and relax while soaking your feet in the river.

Sagenta (左源太) – One of the more affordable restaurants when it comes to Kaiseki-ryouri. The restaurant also offers matcha desserts as well; though they do charge a fee of 500 Yen per pax for a sit at the river bed.

Katsura (かつら) – A hidden restaurant for those opting a simpler meal; serving options such as the sweet miso Nyumen (にゅうめん/Somen noodles in hot soup) and grilled sweetfish.

Pay a Visit to the Neighbouring Kurama-dera

Part of the adventure in visiting Kibune is to check out the neighbouring village of Kurama (鞍馬). And Kurama is famously known among locals in Kyoto for its mountain temple, Kurama-dera (鞍馬寺). Kurama-dera (鞍馬寺) is a unique temple on its own in contrast of the many temples in Kyoto that are woody and rustic in nature.

Instead, Kurama-dera offers in return some amazing mountain views (especially during autumn with the presence of the autumn leaves!). Also fun fact for those who are into Japanese mythology, the temple is also home to the legendary Tengus (天狗); mythical human birdlike creatures that are mainly recognisable by their long nose.

Getting to the scenic Kurama-dera requires a short hike between 2 -3 hours across the tranquil forest of Mt Kurama; which is relatively easy even for those with no hiking experience. Look out for my separate article here which details the entire journey itself.

When to Visit Kibune

Kibune is open for visit throughout the entire year and each seasons does have something to offer in addition to the beautiful nature surrounding the shrine.

Spring: If you prefer to explore the outdoors in a mild weather, spring is the time to visit. Hiking between Kurama and Kibune is also relatively easier. Though if you are looking forward to a mesmerising display of cherry blossoms, there are plenty other places that offer better.

Summer: Summer in Japan is no joke with the scorching heat, though fortunately there are plenty of trees surrounding the shrine while providing shade from the sunlight. On the plus side; this is the only season where you can experience the unique Kawadoko dining experience alongside the flowing river of Kibune.

Autumn: The best time to visit for the fall foliage lovers; especially from Nov until early-Dec. The shrine opens until 8pm for the autumn illumination event and one can catch the scenery of the autumn leaves from the wooden platform near the Main Shrine.

Winter: Believe it or not, the chilling winter is one of the best times to visit Kibune. Mainly because this is when the iconic stone stairs of Kifune Shrine will be covered in snow; providing a striking contrast between the pure white snow and the vibrant vermillion lanterns.

How To Get Here

The best way to travel to Kibune is via train. Firstly, get to Demachiyanagi Station (出町柳駅). From there, board the Eizan Kurama Line (叡山電鉄) and disembark at Kibuneguchi Station (貴船口駅). The whole journey takes about 30 minutes and costs 470 Yen one-way. From the station, ride the local bus to Kifune Shrine for about 10 minutes (costs around 200 Yen one-way). **

**If you are boarding the train sometime from mid-Oct until early-Dec, pay close attention to the outside scenery in between Ichihara Station (市原駅) and Ninose Station (二ノ瀬駅間). As the train passes by the maple leaf tunnel, you will be treated to a short yet dazzling display of autumn leaves illumination during this portion of the ride. Check out the below video to see how it is like (courtesy of Keihan Electric Railway).

Or if you are like me who prefer road trips, consider renting a car for your trip in Japan. Driving around Japan is one of the best ways to explore off the beaten destinations that are notoriously hard to access via the standard public transportation.

Staying in Kibune

It is possible to stay for the night in Kibune; especially for those who want to fully immerse into the wilderness. As Kibune is a resort village; accommodations here are only limited to luxury traditional ryokans (旅館) which are on the higher end. If you are a budget traveler, a day’s trip to Kibune would be a much better option.

Most of the accommodations here are located along the main street of Kibune; offering beautifully designed luxury Japanese-style rooms, indoor baths and kaiseki-ryouri as part of their package. Prices generally range from 35,000 Yen to 70,000 Yen (~ USD 220 – 450) per pax for a night.

Also with the exception of Hiroya, many of these are accommodations are not listed in booking.com or Agoda; in which you will need to make a reservation via their website. To look for the accommodation section in their websites, search for the section named 宿泊プラン (shukuhaku puran) or lodging plan. Here are some of the accommodations to look out for:

Summary

If you are looking for the perfect opportunity to get away from the vast tourist crowds of Kyoto, look no further than Kibune. Apart from Kibune itself, I would also recommend a short hike to the neighbouring village of Kurama for a complete spiritual journey across the serene nature of Kyoto.

See my other articles here for both Kurama and Kibune:

You might also be interested in…

5 Secret Kyoto Travel Tips for First Timers

Loving the content here?

Subscribe and get your free hidden gems in Japan bucket list here.

Kibune – A Complete Travel Guide to Kyoto’s Mystical Village