Kifune Shrine – A Complete Guide to Kyoto’s Mystical Shrine
Amidst the lush forest and tranquil mountains of Kyoto (京都) lies the mystical Kifune Shrine (貴船神社) in the village of Kibune (貴船). Among all the shrines that are located within the mountains of Kyoto, Kifune Shrine is undisputedly the most famous of them all among the local community. Yet, it’s presence remains relatively low among international tourists. In this round, let’s explore the enchanting Kifune Shrine.
Table of Contents
Introducing Kifune Shrine
The Legend Behind Its Founding
Kifune Shrine is one of the oldest shrines in Japan; with the shrine records detailing its reconstruction around 1,300 years ago. This means that it is as old; if not older than the ancient capital Kyoto itself. It’s actual inception is an entirely new mystery by itself; and is strongly linked to Japanese mythology just like many other ancient sites in Japan.
According to the official site of Kifune Shrine, the legend of the shrine’s founding commenced when the mother of Emperor Jinmu (神武天皇), Tamayori-hime (玉依姫) wished to bestow rain and bless the land for good harvest. She then also announced that she will set sail from the Osaka Bay and into the rivers of the region; and that wherever she stops, a shrine was to be constructed.
As she sailed upstram, she came across a spiritual spot in the mountains was impressed by the purity of the water. She subsequently ordered a shrine to be constructed in the area. The dragon god of rain, Takaokami (高靇) was then venerated here as he is the deity that presides over the rain. This shrine would eventually become the Kifune Shrine that we know today.
Location
Kifune Shrine is located at the village of Kibune (貴船); neighbouring the village of Kurama (鞍馬). In fact, one can do a short hike to arrive at Kibune from Kurama-dera (鞍馬寺). A day trip to the pair of villages of Kurama and Kibune is a must especially for the mountain and nature lovers.
An important point to note is that the slight difference in name between the shrine and the village. The shrine is pronounced as Kifune Shrine (貴船神社) while the village is pronounced as Kibune (貴船); same Japanese characters with slightly different pronunciation.
Exploring Kifune Shrine
Kifune Shrine comprises of three sections which are the main shrine (Hongu/本宮), the middle shrine (Yui-no-Yashiro/結社) and the rear shrine (Okumiya/奥宮). Due to Kibune’s relatively simple villagescape of being connected by a single street, it is easy to navigate across all three sections.
Important Note: Me and my wife visited Kifune Shrine during autumn; in which the shrine had extended its hours until 8pm (instead of their usual 6pm) for their autumn illumination event in November. As such, most of our photographs and experiences took place after sunset.
Getting to the Main Shrine (Hongu/本宮)
We begin our journey with the main shrine as we passed through a large Torii (鳥居) gate that serves as the main entrance of the shrine. Upon passing the Torii, we will encounter a series of stone steps (a total of 87 of them) decorated by vermilion-lacquered lanterns on both sides.
This is one of if not, the most iconic scenery of Kifune Shrine; as the synergy of the lanterns from both sides together with the stone stairs creates for a captivating scenery; making you feel like you are entering a mystical world. The stairs are surrounding by maple trees too; with the vibrant autumn leaves adding a unique flair to the natural beauty.
As for the lanterns themselves, these are donated by various companies and individuals and you can spot their names on the lanterns; albeit in Japanese only. Do note there are quite a number of locals that are climbing these stairs to reach the shrine; as such you will need to be a little patient if you want to capture a clear shot of the stairs.
After climbing the stairs, look out for the statue of the two horses; one black and one white facing each other. Back in the ancient times, it was a standard practice for the Imperial Court to provide horses to the shrine as offering for prayers. If the Court wished for rain, they will offer a black horse; and a white one for a clear day.
Eventually, the shrine decided to convert from actual horse offering to plaques known as Ema (絵馬). These plaques are made out of wood and contain a picture of a horse on them; with the characters 絵 (E) meaning picture and (馬) meaning horse. In a way, Kifune shrine gave birth to the Ema; which is widely used in other shrines across Japan.
The Main Shrine (Hongu/本宮)
Kifune Shrine is very closely related with the element of water. And this is not only because of the folktale of Tamayori-hime sailing across the rivers to reach Kibune, but also the fact that the shrine enshrines the dragon god of rain, Takaokami (高靇).
At Kifune Shrine, there is a spot where you can drink some refreshing water. The water here comes from the nearby mountains and is highly revered as sacred among locals including chefs and tea masters (known as Goshinsui/御神水 in Japanese). Similarly to the neighbouring Kurama-dera temple (鞍馬寺), this place is highly revered as a spiritual spot too.
There is also a wooden platform where we sat for quite some time to enjoy the fall foliage and also to take shelter from the rain (talk about a watery experience!). As Kibune is located in a mountainous area, it can get quite cold and rainy in autumn. So make sure to bring your gloves, jacket and umbrella along if you are visiting in autumn.
Experience the Water Fortune-Telling At Kifune Shrine
If there is one activity you shouldn’t miss, it is getting your fortune being told via a water fortune-telling slip (or Mizuura Mikuji/水占みくじ) which is unique to Kibune Shrine only. Simply purchase one from the shrine and then place the slip on the water basin next to the main hall.
The slip will then display your fortune in Japanese accordingly. For non-Japanese speakers; simply scan the QR code with your smartphone and it will direct you to a page which translates your fortune in English, Chinese, Simplified Chinese, and Korean)
The Middle Shrine (Yui-no-Yashiro/結社)
Apart from its strong association with water, one shouldn’t discount on the Yui-no-Yashiro (結社) aka the Middle Shrine. Take note of the Japanese kanji character 結 (alternatively pronounced as musubi) in its name; which means to tie/to bind. The shrine is named as such because it also enshrines the deity of matchmaking, Iwanaga-hime-no-mikoto (磐長姫尊).
Legend has it that Iwanaga-hime-no-mikoto was supposed to be betrothed to another deity; however that deity chose her more beautiful sister. This upset her so badly that she made a vow to remain in this area to bestow good relationships to people. Today, many visit this shrine to pray for a good relationship and marriage.
Japanese shrines are known for its close proximity to forests and lush trees and Yui-no-Yashiro is no exception. There is also a peculiar-shaped rock in the middle that is believed to be the boat used by Tamayori-Hime to sail upstream and arrived at Kibune. It is said that the rock is meant to cover the actual boat itself to maintain its sacredness. Graced by the presence of the towering cedar trees and the peculiar rock covered in light green moss, it does certainly feel like we were exploring the sacred land of deities.
The Rear Shrine (Okunomiya/奥宮)
As we continue towards the Rear Shrine or Okunomiya, we will also venture deeper into the lush forest of Kyoto. Take this time to enjoy the scenery of the towering trees while walking along the lantern-lined path as these trees have existed even before the shrine was erected.
It is also here where me and my wife felt a deeper sense of peace and also a soothing energy that calms the mind. We then later discovered that the shrine was built above a well which is a ‘Ryuketsu (龍穴) or dragon hole’; a concept from Feng Shui (風水) that symbolises a spot with great life energy.
The inner shrine was in fact the original location of Kifune Shrine’s main hall before it was moved to the current location in the 11th century due to a flooding. It also happened to be the original location of the stone boat that was found at Yui-no-Yashiro. And just like the main shrine, the rear shrine also enshrines the dragon god of rain, Takaokami (高靇).
In comparison to the other two sections of the shrines, the area itself is less visited and it offers much more room to explore. During our visit, there was a special autumn event whereby local vendors set up stalls selling local snacks and handmade souvenirs nearby the main shrine. While it did add a little liveliness to the atmosphere, I personally did imagine the environment would be much more solemn and serene on a normal quiet weekday.
When to Visit Kifune Shrine
Kifune Shrine is open for visit throughout the entire year and each seasons does have something to offer in addition to the beautiful nature surrounding the shrine.
- Spring: If you prefer to explore the outdoors in a mild weather, spring is the time to visit. Hiking between Kurama and Kibune is also relatively easier. Though if you are looking forward to a mesmerising display of cherry blossoms, there are plenty other places that offer better.
- Summer: Summer in Japan is no joke with the scorching heat, though fortunately there are plenty of trees surrounding the shrine while providing shade from the sunlight. On the plus side; every year from Jul until mid-Aug, the shrine organises a special bamboo grass decoration illumination event in the evening until 8pm in conjunction with the Tanabata festival (七夕祭り).
- Autumn: The best time to visit for the fall foliage lovers; especially from Nov until early-Dec. The shrine opens until 8pm for the autumn illumination event and one can catch the scenery of the autumn leaves from the wooden platform near the Main Shrine.
- Winter: Believe it or not, the chilling winter is one of the best times to visit the shrine. Mainly because this is when the iconic stone stairs will be covered in snow; providing a striking contrast between the pure white snow and the vibrant vermillion lanterns.
Curious about our autumn evening experience here? Check out the latest reel below to get an idea!!
How To Get Here
- The best way to travel to Kifune Shrine is via train. Firstly, get to Demachiyanagi Station (出町柳駅). From there, board the Eizan Kurama Line (叡山電鉄) and disembark at Kibuneguchi Station (貴船口駅). The whole journey takes about 30 minutes and costs 470 Yen one-way. From the station, ride the local bus to Kifune Shrine for about 10 minutes (costs around 200 Yen one-way). **
**If you are boarding the train sometime from mid-Oct until early-Dec, pay close attention to the outside scenery in between Ichihara Station (市原駅) and Ninose Station (二ノ瀬駅間). As the train passes by the maple leaf tunnel, you will be treated to a short yet dazzling display of autumn leaves illumination during this portion of the ride. Check out the below video to see how it is like (courtesy of Keihan Electric Railway).
- Or if you are like me who prefer road trips, consider renting a car for your trip in Japan. Driving around Japan is one of the best ways to explore off the beaten destinations that are notoriously hard to access via the standard public transportation.
Is It Worth Visiting Kifune Shrine?
Along with the neighbouring Kurama-dera temple, Kifune Shrine is a destination worth visiting if you are looking for a day trip out of Kyoto. In fact, one should consider experiencing a short refreshing hike between both Kurama and Kibune villages at least once in your lifetime.
An important point to note is that both villages require at least a day to explore fully; and as such, the best is if you are staying at least 4 days and above in Kyoto. Also, the village of Kibune itself is charming on its own right and deserves some time to explore.
See my other articles here for both Kurama and Kibune:
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