Kumano Nachi Taisha – A Complete Guide to Japan’s Stunningly Beautiful Mountain Shrine
Nestled deep inside the secluded Kii Peninsula (紀伊半島) is the scenic and majestic Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社) shrine. Kumano Nachi Taisha is one of those destinations that has been a poster boy for many Japan travel promotional materials; and for a right reason.
This is the shrine that features the iconic vermillion pagoda with a majestic waterfall in the background. And, it also happens to be one of the major spiritual sites for the renowned Kumano Kodo hiking trail. With that in mind, let’s explore what this iconic shrine has to offer.
Table of Contents
History of Kumano Nachi Taisha
Kumano Nachi Taisha has been long established since 1,700 years ago by an Indian monk who visited the area. The monk himself was impressed with the area’s spirituality; in particular the magnificence of the nearby Nachi Falls.
This lead to the worship of the waterfall as a deity itself; with the commencement of the practice predates the arrival of Buddhism in Japan in the 6th century. Kumano Nachi Taisha would also be integrated with another temple called Seigantoji (青岸渡寺); which is why you can see a Buddhist temple in today’s complex.
Being blessed with powerful spiritual energy and scenic spots, the site would often be visited by imperial family and members of the aristocrats during the Heian period (平安時代). The pilgrimage route taken by them would eventually developed into the famous pilgrimage route today known as the Kumano Kodo (熊野古道).
And Kumano Nachi Taisha would be the centre of worship as well one of the final spots of the pilgrimage, alongside two other shrines which are Kumano Hongu Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. These three shrines would also form the Kumano Sanzan Shrines (熊野三山).
Kumano Nachi Taisha - Some Basic Info
Even though Kumano Nachi Taisha (熊野那智大社) is located in Wakayama Prefecture (和歌山県) which is just neighbouring Osaka (大阪), it remains one of the harder-to-access heritage sites in Japan. It is located at the Kii Peninsula at the south-east side of the prefecture.
Now you would think a poster boy like this shrine would have an easy access. But nope, that’s not the case and here are a few factors to consider when planning your journey.
- It takes at least 3 to 4 hours from either Osaka (大阪) or Nagoya (名古屋) via train to reach Kii-Katsuura station (紀伊勝浦駅), which is the closest station to the shrine.
- Rental car is also another great way to explore the prefecture; but one must take into account the roads to the shrine are mainly narrow coastal roads.
- As the shrine is located in the mountains, there is also the need to drive through some winding mountain roads.
- There is also the option to take public transport to the shrine; but just like other countryside parts of Japan, the frequency can be limited as well. Be sure to research the bus timetables HERE prior to your journey.
With the above points in mind, it is highly advisable to spend at least a night or two at Nachi-Katsuura (那智勝浦); which is the closest town to Kumano Nachi Taisha. This allows a much more relaxing experience to explore not just the shrine; but also the other nearby attractions. In fact, this area is also known for its majestic mountains and captivating coastal sceneries.
Here is a map of the point that we will explore at Kumano Nachi Taisha:
- 1 & 2 – Daimonzaka Pilgrim Route and Entrance
- 3 – Nachi Taisha complex
- 4 – Seigantoji Temple
- 5 – The iconic three-storey pagoda
- 6 – Nachi Falls
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With that said, let’s explore what this scenic shrine has to offer.
The Path to the Shrine - Daimonzaka Pilgrim Route
In the ancient times, the imperial family and the aristocrats would often conduct pilgrimage to Kumano Nachi Taisha. And the path they would take is the Daimonzaka pilgrim route. This route starts at the base of the valley up until the shrine itself.
And it mainly consists of an impressive cobblestone staircase slope that is surrounded by centuries-old towering cedars, cypress and camphor trees on both sides. This staircase is about 600 metres long and has a total of 267 stairs; and walking along the path itself certainly does feel like we are stepping into the spiritual world.
For those who are planning to trek the Kumano Kodo trail (熊野古道) in this region, this path here serves as a great appertiser on what’s to come. The overall hike takes about 1.5 to 2 hours depending on one’s pacing.
At the start of the path, there is a shop called Daimonzaka-chaya (大門坂茶屋) where we can also rent Heian period costumes and capture some beautiful photos for memories. This is also a wonderful way to experience what it feels like being a noble going on a pilgrimage to the shrine during the ancient times.
Be sure to subscribe as well as I will be covering our thoughts about this unique experience in an upcoming article!
If you are SHORT of time however, fret not as there are buses that take you all the way up to Nachi Falls! Or alternatively, you can also rent a car and drive up the hill to the shrine itself.
Exploring Kumano Nachi Taisha
After climbing a series of staircases, we will finally arrive at Kumano Nachi Taisha. And just like other shrines, there will be a large vermillion Torii (鳥居) at the entrance greeting us. The Torii gate is a must-have feature for shrines in Japan and it symbolises the boundary between the living world and the sacred area.
The main entrance itself is also a wonderful spot for some great opportunities; especially the heavenly scenery of the Torii together with the majestic mountains in the background.
We then pay respects to the main hall of the shrine (Honden/本殿) which is distinguished by its vibrant vermillion colour and cypress bark roof.
The roof in particular is known for the Chigi (千木); which are two forked beams that extend upwards from the ends of the roof that shapes like a cross.
The main highlight of the shrine grounds however, is an ancient camphor tree that is over 850 years old. The tree itself was said to have been planted by Taira-no-Shigemori (平重盛); the eldest son of Taira-no-Kiyomori (平清盛) who established the first samurai-dominated administrative government in Japan.
Here is where we can experience the Tainai Kuguri (胎内くぐり); or simply known as ‘passing through the womb’. And the experience involves climbing in and out of the tree itself which can be done by paying 300 Yen.
It was certainly a surreal experience as we felt a surge of spiritual energy inside the tree itself. In fact, the overall experience is meant to symbolise rebirth and it is said your wishes will come true after climbing it.
Check out the Neighbouring Seigantoji Temple
Next to Kumano Nachi Taisha is the rustic temple, Seigantoji (青岸渡寺); the oldest structure in the compund and a sharp contrast compared to the vibrant shrine! Seigantoji literally translates as the ‘Temple of Crossing the Blue Shores’ and it is the first temple of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, which is the oldest Buddhist pilgrimage route in Japan.
The present temple building is a reconstruction from AD 1587 by the warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉) after it was razed by his former boss, Oda Nobunaga (織田信長). Pay attention to the roof; as this traditional design is called Irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造); aka the Hip & Gable Roof.
The hip roof slopes downwards on all four sides and serves to stablise the building while the gable roof in the center allows weather elements like snow and rain to slide off easily.
Hideyoshi also contributed a Waniguchi gong (Crocodile Mouth Gong) for the temple; which is a metal slit gong that resembles a crocodile mouth. Unfortunately, I could not show it as photos are not allowed inside the temple. The gong in this temple is a designated National Important Cultural Property also happens to be the largest in Japan!
An interesting point to note is that the temple was once part of the shrine complex and is simply called Nyoirindo Hall as it enshrines the deity Nyoirin Kannon (如意輪観音). However, a separation between Shintoism and Buddhism occurred during the Meiji period (明治時代); forcing the temple to be split into a separate institution.
This is why you will see two different institutions and names for the shrine and temple in Google Maps (Kumano Nachi Taisha & Seigantoji respectively), even though they are both within the same complex. And this is also one of the few adjoining shrine-temple complexes in Japan; with the temple being the shrine’s next door neighbour.
The Iconic Three-Storied Pagoda
What earns Kumano Nachi Taisha it’s tourism poster boy status is none other than its iconic three-storied pagoda. This three-storied pagoda was also part of the original structure; but was later razed together with the Seigantoji Temple by the warlord Oda Nobunaga.
The pagoda however was only rebuilt in 1972; making it the newest building in the complex. Nevertheless, the scenery of the illustrious vermillion pagoda together with the magnificent Nachi Falls in the background is a spiritual sight that should be witness in-person at least once in a lifetime. Do note there is a fee of 500 Yen to be paid for entering the pagoda!
Each of the levels in the pagoda features a Buddhist deity of worship as well as elaborate Buddhist paintings created by local artists. The third floor is where one can catch a closer view of the scenic Nachi Falls. In fact, one can listen to the soothing sound of the flowing water of the majestic falls from afar.
As we explore Kumano Nachi Taisha, we will spot some statue of a three-legged crow and also souvenir stores selling caricatures of it. This is the Yatagarasu (八咫烏) which serves as a servant of Amaterasu (天照), the sun goddes in Japanese mythology.
This crow was said to have guided Emperor Jinmu (神武天皇), the first legendary emperor in Japan to present-day Nara to establish his capital. After completion of its duties, the crow then returned here and was later worshipped as a deity.
You can also find statues of the Yatagarasu in the other Kumano Sanzan shrines which are Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社) and Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社).
Nachi Falls & Hiro Jinja
Saving the best attraction for the last, we then head towards Hiro Jinja (飛瀧神社) to catch a closeup shot of the Nachi Falls. Hiro Jinja is unique in the sense that it does not have a worship hall. Rather, the shintai (神体) or the object where the deity resides is the waterfall itself; in contrast with the usual items such as mirrors, jewels and swords.
What makes the experience an unforgettable one is the fact that we can witness the majestic waterfall itself closeup; as if we are kneeling before the deity! Despite the intensive travel that my wife and I did for the past few days, we couldn’t help but feeling refreshed while admiring the falls.
Nachi Falls is 133 metres tall and is undisputedly the tallest single-drop waterfall in Japan; making it’s reputation all the more impressive. There is also a viewing platform which one can access with a small generous fee of 300 Yen, which I HIGHLY recommend as it offers the best viewpoint of the falls closeup!
The breathtaking view of the falls together with the surrounding lush nature makes this a lovely spiritual spot to explore. Personally, I can imagine how people back then must have been awestricken by the surrounding lush forest and the stunning falls that they believed they were meeting face-to-face with god himself.
Getting to Nachi Taisha
By Train from Osaka
Nachi-Katsuura can be accessed by train from Osaka (大阪); where you will need to catch the limited express train Kuroshio (くろしお) from Shin-Osaka station (新大阪駅). This limited express train serves to transport passengers across the cities in Wakayama Prefecture up until the town of Shingu (新宮).
To get to Nachi-Katsuura, simply disembark at Kii-Katsuura Station (紀伊勝浦駅). The entire journey from Shin-Osaka takes about 4 hours. Do note that NOT ALL Kuroshio trains commute all the way until Shingu; hence it is advisable to check the schedule via Jorudan first prior to boarding the train.
If you are travelling from Osaka, then the Kansai Wide Area Pass is a great cost-saving option to consider as it covers the Kuroshio rides.
From the station, board bus 31 of the Nachi line and disembark at Nachisan (那智山) bus stand or Nachi-no-Takimae (那智の滝前) for Nachi Falls. Ticket costs 630 Yen one-way but you can also purchase the Nachi Area World Heritage Free Pass Ticket (那智エリア世界遺産フリー乗車券) here for 1,200 Yen here which allows unlimited ride for a day!
By Train from Nagoya
There is also the option to travel from Nagoya (名古屋). From Nagoya Station (名古屋駅), catch the limited express train Nanki (南紀) and then, disembark at Kii-Katsuura Station (紀伊勝浦駅). Similarly to Osaka, the entire journey takes around 4 hours as well.
In this case, the Ise-Kumano-Wakayama Tourist Pass is the go-to pass as it covers the Nanki line. Another plus point is that this pass covers the bus fare from the station to Nachi Taisha as well; meaning you don’t need to purchase the Nachi Area World Heritage Free Pass Ticket (那智エリア世界遺産フリー乗車券).
By Car to Nachi-Katsuura
Another option for those who prefer to drive and enjoy the scenery along the way is renting a car. This is the method my wife and I used to explore the coastal area of Wakayama prefecture as well as towns and cities such as Wakayama (和歌山), Shirahama (白浜) and also Nachi-Katsuura (那智勝浦).
RENTING a car allows us to to enjoy the mesmerising ocean view of the coastal road; an experience certainly not to be missed especially if you are driving around Wakayama Prefecture. Keen in renting a car for your next Japan road trip? Check out Tocoo for more info here.
Where to Stay Nearby
Despite being a small town, Nachi-Katsuura features a variety of accommodations that caters according to different budget levels.
- There are a variety of budget accommodations near the Kii-Katsuura station such as Why Kumano, Jiyujiya and Minshuku Wakatake. Affordable and conveniently close to the station.
- If you looking for a more luxurious option on the other hand, look out for options such as Kamenoi Hotel and Manseiro are solid accommodations with onsen hot spring options.
- For a more unique onsen experience, look no further than Hotel Urashima and Nakanoshima. These two majestic hotels offer refreshing onsen experiences as their outdoor onsens are right next to the Pacific Ocean itself. In fact, my wife and I stayed at Hotel Urashima and were lucky to have experienced their trademark cave onsens that are known for their scenery. Check out my separate article here for more info!
Other Nearby Attractions & Relevant Articles
As Kumano Nachi Taisha is one of the three Kumano Sanzan shrines; it is definitely worth checking out the other two mystical Kumano shrines; Kumano Hongu Taisha (熊野本宮大社) and Kumano Hayatama Taisha (熊野速玉大社) respectively (which I will cover in future articles).
Also, you might also be interested in these nearby attractions……
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