Kurama to Kibune Hike – A Complete Day-Trip Guide from Kyoto
An enriching experience not to be missed is to visit the villages of Kurama (鞍馬) and Kibune (木船) up north of Kyoto; and part of the experience is the Kurama to Kibune hike itself. The hike itself connects Kurama (known for its temple with esoteric religious belief) and the picturesque Kibune which is famous for its shrine and high-end restaurants.
Along the hike, one will go through the holy mountains of the area that gave birth to Reiki therapy (霊気), filled with towering cedar trees, little rustic shrines and a combination of dirt trails and paved paths. With that expectation in mind, let’s go deeper into this unique hiking experience.
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Kurama to Kibune Hike - Some Basic Info Before You Go
Firstly, the hike from Kurama to Kibune itself is considered fairly easy by hiking standards. My wife and I did the hike during autumn; and even though we are not seasoned hikers, we managed to hike between both villages without getting ourselves exhausted. Nevertheless since this is still a hike, here are some tips to take note of before you begin:
- Distance: Approximately 5km
- Duration: 2 hours for seasoned hikers (add 1 hour extra if you love taking photos like us)
- Best time to start: Anytime from 10 am to 1 pm (give yourself sufficient time to explore both villages)
- Not advisable for: Families with toddlers or babies and also those that require strollers, pregnant women as well as those with walking disabilities
- What to bring: Comfortable walking shoes, insect repellent, sunblock and sunglasses for sunny days, umbrella for rainy days, hiking stick if necessary, a phone with good camera and most importantly, water!
- Best time to hike: Any season is fine, but spring (Mar – Apr) and autumn (Oct- Nov) are preferred simply for the milder temperatures
- Familiarise yourself with the name Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune (源義経) as I will be spamming his name throughout the article given the his strong association with this area. See my trivia article here and also Wikipedia for more info.
Also, here are some commonly asked questions and answers to them regarding the hike:
- Can I hike from from Kibune to Kurama instead? Yes, it is possible. See my separate section here for more info.
- Are there train services from both Kibune and Kurama? Yes, both villages are serviced by trains (see here for more info). Just make sure you have a rechargeable IC card (i.e. ICOCA, Suica, Pasmo and etc) or cash with you to pay for the train rides.
Now that we have the basic info out of the way, lets get into the actual hike itself.
Kurama to Kibune Hike - The Hike Itself
Hiking from Kurama to Kibune itself is an adventure, albeit a spiritual once that takes you across the sacred mountains of Kyoto. As the hike itself will take a few hours at least, it is best to attempt this early till mid-day as the path itself becomes dark towards the evening.
Here is a rough guide on what the path looks like from Google Maps (courtesy of Wanderlog); in which we will be going through 10 landmarks (numbered 1 – 10) throughout the course from Kurama to Kibune.
Our Starting Point at Kurama Dera Temple
Firstly, we begin our journey from Kurama Dera Temple (鞍馬寺). Head to the left side of the temple’s main hall and there should be a path leading up towards the mountain as shown below next to a stone lantern.
Walk up a few stairs and we will then encounter landmark no 1 which is the temple’s belfry. Fun fact; this is one of the few temples in Japan that allow you to sound the belfry. So feel free to do so and listen to the chimes of the bell resonating across the surrounding mountains.
Continue on walking and we will pass by landmark no 2 which is the Kurama Mountain Museum or Reihoden (霊宝殿). This is a museum that exhibits the exclusive treasures of Kurama-dera. Entry is 200 Yen per person (100 Yen for child) and I would advise going for it only if you have sufficient time or if you are into Buddhist exhibits.
After some time, we will arrive landmark no 3, a small temple called Byobuzaka-no-jizodo (屏風坂の地蔵堂). This little structure gets its name from the steep stairs in front of it that resembles an opened Japanese folding screen or Byobu (屏風); which was carved out of a monolith.
A Tale of Reiki and Minamoto Yoshitsune
From here onwards, we will be hiking through a series of steep staircases while being greeted by towering trees (thank god they have railings along these stairs). Following the stairs here leads to some beautiful forest scenery across the tall and lush trees of Kyoto’s mountains. Amidst the tranquility and the silence of the forest, one can hear only the occasional chirping of the birds. Honestly, this feels like an entirely new world when compared to the bustling tourist crowd of Kyoto.
We then hit landmark no 4, the Yoshitsune-ko Sekurabe-ishi (義経公背比べ石). According to legends, the general Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune (源義経) trained martial arts here with the tengus before he joined his brother, Minamoto-no-Yoritomo (源頼朝) to defeat the rivalling Taira clan.
The event itself is called the Gempei War (源平合戦) and was the catalyst that lead to the founding of the Kamakura shogunate (鎌倉幕府), Japan’s first military government in AD 1185. Now back to this stone, the height of this stone was said to equal the height of Yoshitsune when he was 7 years old.
Also nearby the stone is landmark no 5, our favourite landmark of the hike, the Root Path or the Ki-no-ne Michi (木の根道). The charm of this spot lies in the large tangled exposed roots of the ancient cedar trees. The roots themselves resemble a spiderweb; each of them tangling across each other to create wild patterns.
It’s like an eccentric artwork created by nature; yet also fascinating to admire at the time especially with the calm and soothing surrounding. Also, right next to it is landmark no 6, the Osugi Gongen-sha (大杉権現社), the very spot where Reiki (霊気); a hand-to-hand energy healing technique was born. Given the soothing environment of the area, it is no surprise that this was the site of traning for Yoshitsune as well as the birthplace of Reiki.
Continue Our Hike From Kurama to Kibune
Continue our Kurama to Kibune hike and we will soon encounter landmark no 7. This is the Sojo-no-tani Fudo-do Temple (僧正谷不動堂). The hall itself is a place of worship for the Buddhist deity Fudo-myoo (不動明王) and the building itself is not historically significant. However, this spot is said to be the spot where Yoshitsune and the tengu Sōjōbō (僧正坊) first met before they began training according to legends.
Just nearby the hall itself is landmark no 8, a little shrine known as Yoshitsune-do (義経堂). It was said that after Yoshitune was betrayed by his allies and forced to commit suicide in Hiraizumi (平泉), his soul returned to Kurama. Locals then built this shrine to enshrine him as a local deity.
Continue walking down along several uneven stairs and we will arrive at landmark no 9, Oku-no-In Maoden (奥の院魔王殿). This little shrine worships Maoson (魔王尊), a tengu-like deity that is believed to have arrived from Venus to Earth 6.5 million years ago via a meteorite. Maoson also happens to be a unique deity worshipped at Kurama-dera.
As we hike along the uneven stairs, be sure to take your time to admire the towering forest trees and enjoy the sheer tranquility of the area. In fact, I would say it is a luxury to enjoy such level of peacefulness especially in a city that is infamous for its overtourism.
After descending down the mountain, we will then encounter a river and a small gate (landmark no 10) leading to a town. Ladies and gentlemen; congratulations, we have finally arrived at Kibune and also completed our hike from Kurama to Kibune.
Can I Hike from Kibune to Kurama?
Yes, it is also possible to hike from Kibune to Kurama. Do note however that Kurama-dera opens until 4pm; whereas Kibune’s main attraction, Kifune Shrine (貴船神社) opens until 6pm. Moreover, Kifune has a lot more restaurants that are open for dinner; making it a better destination to visit in the evening.
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Where Do I Start?
- If you plan to start from Kurama: Get to Demachiyanagi Station (出町柳駅) in Kyoto. From there, board the Eizan Kurama Line (叡山電鉄) and disembark at Kurama Station (鞍馬駅). and head to Kurama-dera.
- If you plan to start from Kibune: Get to Demachiyanagi Station (出町柳駅) in Kyoto. From there, board the Eizan Kurama Line (叡山電鉄) and disembark at Kibuneguchi Station (貴船口). From the station, take a ride on local bus no 33 for 6 minutes (170 Yen one-way) and disembark at Kibune.
The journey to either stations takes about 30 minutes and costs 470 Yen one-way. If you have purchased the handy Kansai Thru Pass, this line is covered by the pass. **
**If you are boarding the train during autumn (mid-Oct to early-Dec), pay close attention to the outside scenery in between Ichihara Station (市原駅) and Ninose Station (二ノ瀬駅間). As the train passes by the maple leaf tunnel, you will be treated to a short yet dazzling display of autumn leaves illumination during this portion of the ride. Check out the below video to see how it is like (courtesy of Keihan Electric Railway).
- Or if you are like me who prefer road trips, consider renting a car to drive to Kurama and Kibune. Driving around Japan is one of the best ways to explore off the beaten destinations that are notoriously hard to access via the standard public transportation. This is especially convenient if you are attending the evening festivals such as the Kurama Fire Festival (鞍馬火の祭り) that lasts until late night.
The Hike from Kurama to Kibune - Is It Worth It?
Absolutely yes! Especially if you are in Kyoto for at least 4 days and above and have time to spare for a day trip. The hike from Kurama to Kibune is considered easy overall and you do not need intensive training to attempt this. Not to mention, it is a great way to get out of the city and connect closer with the beautiful mother nature of Kyoto. And it is also one of the best ways to travel to the quaint and beautiful village of Kibune.
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