A Complete Guide to the Rokugo Manzan Temples
The remote Kunisaki Peninsula is undoubtedly a haven for Rokugo Manzan temples. And rightfully so, as this region was once the birth place of Rokugo Manzan, an indigenous culture resulted from the assimilation of Buddhism (仏教), Shintoism (神道) together with mountain worship. To describe it eloquently, it is a heritage of religious acceptance.
Established in AD 718, this culture cultivated across the tranquil region and eventually established a series of rustic temples and spiritual sites. One of these is none other than the grand Usa Jingu shrine, which undeniably deserves its own article. These temples and sites are truly worth checking out, especially for their tranquility and historical value. With that in mind, lets explore what this region has to offer.
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Table of Contents
Fukiji Temple (富貴寺)
To kickstart, we begin with the one of the oldest Rokugo Manzan temples. Fukiji temple’s main hall is the oldest wooden structure in Kyushu (九州), built during the inception of the culture in AD 718. Later, the ruling family of the area, the Daiguji clan (大宮司氏) from Usa Jingu turned this into their place of worship. The main hall itself is a stunning National Treasure and houses the Amida Nyorai (aka the Buddha of Infinite Light).
Furthermore, the temple features a simple and yet elegant architecture. Pay close attention in particular to its sweeping roof design, said to resemble a phoenix (Hou-ou/鳳凰) spreading his wings. The phoenix symbolises peace and prosperity in Buddhism and also an integral part in Buddhist temples designs. If you are into meditation, the main hall serves as a wonderful meditation spot. The scenery of being surrounded by the lush forest, together with the blissful Buddha certainly will help you in understanding yourself better.
The temple is also a magical spot to visit, especially during autumn and winter. In autumn (mid-Nov to early-Dec), the hall will be surrounded by bright-red and golden leaves; creating an overall enchanting scenery. And if you are lucky during winter (mid-Jan), you get to see a beautiful contrast between the rustic wooden structure together with the roof covered in pure white snow.
Operating hours: 8.30 am – 4.30 pm
Entrance Fee: 500 Yen
Also, check out this superb video created by TokyoStreetView covering the temple’s layout.
Futagoji Temple (両子寺)
The other poster boy of the Kunisaki Peninsula; alongside the above Fukiji temple. If Fukiji temple is the oldest, then Futagoji temple is the central temple. That is because Futagoji is located at the foot of Mt Futago (双子山), the highest mountain in the center of the region. Also similarly to Fukiji temple, it was established by Ninmon in AD 718. If you are into nature photography, don’t miss out on this one as the entire complex is surrounded by towering trees; which have remained untouched for centuries.
The temple is mostly known for its twin large statues known as the Nio guardians (仁王). These two pairs are actually guardians of the Gautama Buddha in Buddhism; similar to a 24 hours 7 days bodyguard. Due to their roles, they are often seen in front of the gates of Buddhist temples. Futagoji’s case is no exception. In fact, the height of these statues are 245 cm overall, the largest of its kind within the region and is regarded as a treasure among locals. To learn more about this fascinating temple, check out my separate travel guide here.
Pay attention to the mouths of the Nio guardians guarding the gate. The one on the right in the above picture is called Agyo (Agyō/あぎょう/阿形); notable with his mouth opening to project the ‘ah’ sound. The left one in the pic on the other hand is Ungyo (Ungyō/うんぎょう/吽形), with a closed mouth which projects the sound ‘um’.
Operating hours: 8.00 am – 5.00 pm (Mar until Nov); 8.30 am – 4.30 pm (Dec until Feb)
Entrance Fee: 300 Yen
Also, check out this superb video created by TokyoStreetView covering the temple’s layout.
Monjusenji Temple (文殊仙寺)
Continuing the list of Rokugo Manzan temples is none other than the hidden Monjusenji temple. Named after Manjushri (the wise guy among the Bodhisattvas in Buddhism), the temple was established in AD 648, which predates the pioneering of Rokugo Manzan. The temple enshrines the Manjushri (Monju Bosatsu/文殊菩薩) as its principal worship deity and later became part of the Rokugo Manzan temples.
The temple is known particularly for two things; a place of worship for wisdom and being surrounded by giant cedar and zelkova trees. The stone statues here have existed for centuries, to the point that they are covered by mosses and vines, providing them with a unique charm. The ancient trees here too are an attraction by themselves, sheltering the temple while contributing to the overall serenity. Regardless of your photography skills, there is definitely plenty of opportunities to snap a wonderful nature photo for yourself. For more info, be sure to check out my separate article on Monjusenji.
Look out for the giant zelkova tree (ookeyaki/大欅) near the temple grounds. This tree has survived for a 1,000 years and earned the nickname ‘the 1000-years-old zelkova tree/千年大欅’, as well as a natural monument of the prefecture. To get there, climb up the stairs to the main hall. However, instead of heading up to the main hall, turn right to the visitor hall (客殿). Then, continue down until you see a bell tower. Head behind the tower, and look out for a tree with the signboard ‘千年欅’.
Operating hours: 9.00 am – 4.30 pm
Entrance Fee: N/A
Also, check out this superb video created by TokyoStreetView covering the temple’s layout.
Choanji Temple (長安寺)
Among all the Rokugo Manzan temples, Choanji (pronounced Chouanji/Chōanji) earns the reputation as being the most flowery. And rightfully so, as the locals nicknamed it ‘the temple of flowers (hana no tera/花の寺). Choanji started off in AD 718 as a Tendai sect temple, and later became the head temple among Rokugo Manzan temples, hosting 1,000 monks during its peak. However, later a warlord took control over the temple and upon his demise, it was stripped of its title as head temple.
Nevertheless, locals enjoy visiting this hidden temple today to marvel at the seasonal flowers that bloom within the temple grounds. Especially during spring (mid-April to May), the temple features a garden of enchanting Rhododendron (shakunage/シャクナゲ) flowers. These flowers resemble peonies, and are coloured red and white; providing a beautiful and striking contrast with the rustic temple structure. And if you prefer the warm and breezy autumn; the temple grounds will be covered by golden leaves in autumn, resembling a scenery from paradise.
Apart from the temple’s trademark Rhododendron, check out also the graceful and soothing hydrangeas (ajisai/アジサイ) which blossom during June. On the other hand, floral enthusiasts should check out the spider lilies (higanbana/彼岸花) at their peak during mid-November to end-November, an elegant and also unusual flower that represents death in Buddhism.
Operating hours: 8.00 am – 5.00 pm
Entrance Fee: 300 Yen (however entrance fee during Rhododendron watching season is 200 Yen)
Also, be sure to subscribe as I will cover my travel experience on some of these temples in the future.
Tennenji Temple (天念寺)
One of Kunisaki’s most scenic, and also severely underrated temple. Tennenji’s architecture is undoubtedly fascinating, featuring a thatched structure portruding from a cave at the base of an immense cliff. Formerly a training ground for Rokugo Manzan practitioners, today many travelers visit the temple to enjoy the surrounding mountain sceneries. In particular, the temple is renowned for its ancient rock carving of Fudo-myoo (pronounced Fudou-myouou/Fudō-myōō/不動明王), the vanquisher of evil in Buddhism. The carving is located peacefully in the middle of a river and was built centuries ago to tame the raging river.
For the mountain lovers, don’t forget to check out the nearby stunning mountain scenery known as Yabakei (耶馬渓). The gorge features also a tiny scenic stone bridge that connects between two ridges. This is the Mumyo Bridge (無明橋); where practitioners used to cross during their rigorous training. Standing 200 meters above ground, this bridge is infamous for being fenceless, and yet offers a stunning view of the surrounding regions; especially if you are brave enough to cross it. For the hikers, be sure not to miss out this side quest to hike up to the bridge.
Ensure to allocate at least 1.5 – 2 hours if you are planning to hike up to Mumyo Bridge (無明橋). The route towards the bridge contains no rail, and instead only stone walls and iron chains. As such, best to wear shoes, long pants and gloves; together with some degree of rock climbing experience.
Operating hours: 8.30 am – 5.00 pm
Entrance Fee: N/A
Also, check out this superb video created by TokyoStreetView covering the temple’s layout.
Iwatoji (岩戸寺)
In comparison with its predecessors, Iwatoji is no doubt smaller and lesser known among the travel circle. Nestled deep within the forest, this little temple shelters two of the oldest artefacts of their own kind in the region. Firstly, the temple presents a pair of Nio guardians (仁王) similarly to Futagoji. The right statue with the mouth opened, Agyo (Agyō/あぎょう/阿形) originates from 1478 and is the oldest of its kind in the region. Then, there is also an elegant 3.3 meter high pagoda known as the Kunisaki-to (国東塔), which was built in 1283.
Iwatoji is also one of the three temples that hosts the annual Shujo-Onie (Shujō-Onie/しゅじょうおにえ/修正鬼会), a demon possession festival which occurs every winter. This rare festival features a delicate ritual of two men being possessed by demons, while using burning torches to bless the townsfolks with good fortune. Accompanying these men are monks chanting prayers along with the local participants who are daring enough to observe this mysterious festival during a cold winter night. If you are looking for a totally mind-blowing experience, Shujo-Onie is one festival you should not miss.
Iwatoji is one of the three temples to host the Shujo-Onie festival (the other two being Tennenji/天念寺 & Jobutsuji/成仏寺). Do note however that Iwatoji and Jobutsuji take turns to host the event. Iwatoji hosts it during odd years, while Jobutsuji hosts during even years. Check out Tourism Oita to learn more about the event. Also be sure to subscribe as I will be covering more info about this unique festival.
Operating hours: 8.00 am – 5.00 pm
Entrance Fee: N/A
Makiodo Hall (真木大堂)
Founded in AD 718, this hall was formerly one of the Rokugo Manzan temples known as Makisan Denjoji (馬城山伝乗寺). Unfortunately, fire swept the entire complex 700 years ago. Fortunately, the locals managed to save 9 Buddha statues which originated from the Heian period (平安時代/AD 794 – 1185). Today, only a wooden hall from the Edo period (江戸時代/ AD 1603 – 1867) and a modern repository housing the 9 statues remains. Nevertheless, Makiodo Hall is certainly worth checking out, especially for the museum and antique lovers.
The treasure house features the saved Buddha statues which are designated as Important Cultural Properties in Japan (重要文化财). Some of these include the fiery vanquisher of evil, Fudo-myoo (Fudou-myouou/Fudō-myōō/不動明王), and also the solemn Buddha of Infinite Light, Amida Nyorai (阿弥陀如来). In particular, the statue of the Destroyer of Death, Daiitoku-Myoo (Daiitoku-Myouou/Daiitoku-Myōō/大威徳明王) here heights around 241 cm and is the largest of its kind in Japan. He is easily distinguished as the one riding a white bull, with six arms and six legs as well as six fearsome faces.
Pay close attention to the details of the statues in display, as they often come with various meanings behind it. The six heads of the Daiitoku-Myoo for e.g. represents the six senses of the human (visual, auditory, odor, taste, touch, inspiration). They can also represent the six realms of existence in Buddhism (gods, demi-gods, humans, animals, hungry ghosts and hells).
Operating hours: 8.30 am – 5.00 pm
Entrance Fee: 300 Yen
Also, check out this superb video created by TokyoStreetView covering the hall’s fascinating collection.
Overall Thoughts
There are certainly plenty of Rokugo Manzan temples to explore around the Kunisaki peninsula. Bear in mind that these are some of the major ones; which I have yet to include the lesser known ones across the region. One important travel tip to share is that finding convenient public transportation is like finding a needle in a haystack. The best way to explore the area is by renting a car and going on a road trip.
Apart from temples, the region has a plethora of scenic views for those who are into photography. Be sure to subscribe as I will cover more details in the future. Also, check out my separate guide on Oita if you are looking for a place to stay.
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