Ukimido – A Complete Guide to Lake Biwa’s Iconic Scenery
Ukimido (浮御堂) is recognised one of the Eight Great Views of Omi (近江八景; pronounced Oumi Hakkei) and is easily the poster boy of the group. Ask any local who stay around Lake Biwa (琵琶湖 or Biwa-ko) to recommend a photogenic spot around the lake and most likely their answer is Ukimido.
Despite locating in the city of Otsu (大津) and its close proximity to Kyoto, this little temple is still relatively unknown among the tourist radar. This is a blessing in disguise however, as this makes it an ideal spot for those looking to enjoy a lake scenery in peaceful state of mind. Now what makes this little temple so beautiful and recognisable? Let’s find out.
Table of Contents
History & Background
The Founding
Ukimido literally translates as ‘Floating Hall’ and its resides at a small temple called Mangetsuji (満月寺). The temple itself has a rather vague history; believed to have been constructed during the aristocratic Heian Period (平安時代) from the 8th – 12th century.
The founder of the temple is believed to have been a monk known as Genshin (源信) from Mt Hiei (比叡山). During a peaceful night, Genshin noticed a suspicious light in Lake Biwa and decided to investigate on it. He later searched and scooped a golden Buddha statue out of the lake. Perceiving this as a miracle from the Gods, he subsequently built a pavilion on the lake to house 1,000 replica Buddha statues for worshipping.
In the past, sailors would often conduct prayers at the pavilion for safety while sailing across the lake. The pavilion itself did suffer damages and disrepair throughout the centuries; in particular in 1934 when the infamous Muroto Typhoon (室戸台風) occurred that killed over 3,000 people. The pavilion was eventually reconstructed in 1937 and would later be recognised officially as a Cultural Property (構成文化財) for its scenery and heritage value.
A Popular Site Among Poets and Artists
Ukimido itself is mainly know for its scenery and because of this, it is particularly popular not just among photographers; but also poets and painters in the past. The famous Japanese poet Matsuo Basho (松尾芭蕉) often visited Otsu and stayed nearby the Ukimido during the 17th century.
The poet himself would composed about 89 poems about the places in Otsu including the pavilion itself. To give an idea of how much he loved Otsu, these poems make up 10% of his total lifetime work and he even requested to be buried in Otsu upon his death.
The beauty of Ukimido was further immortalised by the 19th century master of Ukiyo-e (浮世絵 or woodblock paintings), Utagawa Hiroshige (歌川広重). Inspired by the the Eight Views of Xiaoxiang painting in China, he created a remake of the painting known as the Eight Views of Omi** (近江八景; pronounced Oumi Hakkei).The pavilion is featured in one of the views known as ‘The Descending Geese at Katata’ which you can view here for the actual paintings.
**Omi or Ōmi/Oumi is the former name of Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県); where Ukimido is located at. It is also the prefecture that houses the largest inland lake in Japan, which is Lake Biwa (Biwako/琵琶湖).
Visiting Ukimido
Ukimido is located in Mangetsuji temple right at the western shore of Lake Biwa in the city of Otsu. The temple itself is located at the Katata area (堅田). It was formerly a prominent area where by the locals controlled the fishing and passage rights given the area was narrowest part of the lake before the marine hub shifted to Otsu. Today only a handful of traditional houses and small temples remained in the area; with Ukimido being the main star of attraction.
Ukimido’s main attraction is not in its size or elaborate history but rather in its scenery. And because of this, the best way to explore the site is to simply take your time to walk along the pavilion and enjoy the scenery from different angles.
Entering the Temple Complex
Mangetsuji temple is one of the smaller temple complexes that I have visited in Japan (then again, not all beautiful temples need to have large complexes). Not to mention, the entrance fee is 300 Yen which is pretty affordable compared to other temples. While there are a couple of halls around the complex, the main highlight to look out for is its Chinese-looking two-story entrance gate which is a Tangible Cultural Property by itself.
The architecture itself is known as the Ryugu-jo Zukuri (龍宮城造り) which literally means Dragon Palace Style. This style is easily recognisable with the flat arched entrance featured on the lower story; with its curvy exterior that curves inwards towards the top.
The top of the lower story holds a timber that is used to support the second story. Ryugu-jo happens to be the mytical undersea palace for the Dragon God in Japanese folklore; and this design is used for this particular gate given the temple’s close proximity to the lake.
If you are visiting here during autumn like me, you are in luck as you can catch a glimpse of the fall foliage at the temple’s small garden.
Ukimido the Floating Pavilion
It is no secret the main reason why we visit this small temple is to check out its stunningly beautiful floating pavilion. Ukimido which literally translates as ‘the Floating Pavilion’ is built on stilts along the shore of Lake Biwa. The hall itself houses over 1,000 carved Buddha statues and served as the temple’s main prayer hall.
As we walk across the bridge towards Ukimido, be sure to take your time to soak in the atmosphere and enjoy the stunning view of Lake Biwa. Inside the pavilion, one can catch a glimpse of the impressive display of the golden Buddha statues. Its just a shame that I could not show a picture as they do not allow photos inside the pavilion.
On the other hand, there are plenty of photo opportunities to look out for as we walk around the pavilion. In fact, I would say sunset is the best time to visit; simply to catch the scenery of the sunset colours being reflected on the lake itself. You could even catch the sight of the majestic mountains standing at the other side of the lake that are sheltered by the clouds.
My favourite shots are the ones that involve both the pavilion’s rustic architecture and also the lake view as they do make you feel like you are travelling back in time to feudal Japan. It is no surprise as to why this spot was able to charmed even the most seasoned artists including Utagawa Hiroshige (歌川広重) and Matsuo Basho (松尾芭蕉). We were also very lucky to be able to capture the shots of the scenery with the crescent moon too.
Getting to Ukimido
By Public Transportation
Ukimido makes for a wonderful day trip destination from Kyoto especially if you are staying in the historical capital for several days. And it is possible to get to the temple by public transportation.
- Firstly, take the train from Kyoto Station (京都駅) to Katata Station (堅田駅) via the Tokaido-Sanyo line (東海道山陽線) for about 25 minutes. If you have the JR Rail Pass or the JR Kansai Wide Area Pass, then the fare for this portion of the journey is covered.
- Afterwards, take a local bus from Katata Station (堅田駅) to Katatademachi bus stand (堅田出町) for 5 minutes. And then, walk another 5 minutes to Ukimido.
By Car
Personally, I prefer this method as renting a car is a much more flexible option to explore the countryside of Japan. Consider renting a car for your trip as driving in Japan is relatively safe and convenient; and you can leave anytime you want without having to keep track of the public transportation timing. Parking lots are available nearby Ukimido and they are free of charge.
In fact, me and my wife took the opportunity to do a small walking tour around the streets of Katata after our visit to Ukimido and even discover the nearby sights. One such sight includes the small and tranquil Izu Shrine (伊豆神社) which happens to be a local cherry blossom viewing spot.
When to Visit Ukimido
Ukimido is open all year long and sunset is one of the best times to visit the temple. Sunrise is another alternative for the early birds (but you will have to find another spot to capture a shot of the floating hall as the temple itself opens only at 8am onwards). Do note however that during autumn and winter, the sunrise will commence later and the sunset begins earlier in comparison with spring and autumn. As such it is advisable to check here for the estimated time beforehand especially if you are into capturing sunrise and sunset photographs.
Where to Stay Nearby
A day trip to Otsu is possible especially from Kyoto and Osaka given its close proximity to both cities. However, staying a night or two at Otsu is also a great idea as the city offers a variety of attractions worth checking out for those willing to explore deeper. Attractions such as Hiyoshi Taisha (日吉大社), Mii-dera (三井寺), Enryakuji (延暦寺) and Omi Jingu (近江神宮) offer equally impressive travel experiences to that of Kyoto but at a much more relaxing pace with lesser tourist crowds.
Well-known local business hotel chains such as APA Hotel and Toyoko Inn are great options to consider for budget travelers. If you are keen in taking a cruise across the scenic Lake Biwa and have a bit of budget to spend, consider spending the night at the grand Lake Biwa Otsu Prince Hotel. For those who are willing to splurge, indulge yourself at Biwako Ryokusuitei and Yuzanso which offers relaxing outdoor baths and also a stunning view of Lake Biwa.
Overall Thoughts
Would I recommend checking out Ukimido? Definitely; especially if you have extra days to spare for day trips or if you are doing a road trip around the Shiga prefecture. It is an attraction that is meant to be enjoyed slowly and from different view points.
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